Even if you plan on painting the wood, you may want to oil it first, especially if the wood is old and in poor condition. [1] X Research source Teak is a uniquely long-lived wood which does not need to be oiled, although once it has been oiled it may require regular reapplication.
Tung oil gives good protection, if you can accept the high price and hours of drying time. [2] X Research source A finish that contains tung oil gives better water protection than 100% tung oil, but avoid varnishes that create a top layer instead of soaking in, and be wary of products sold as “tung oil” that have no relation to the real product. [3] X Research source For cutting boards and other kitchen applications, use food-safe mineral oil, or coconut, walnut, or almond oil. Avoid the last two if nut allergies are an issue. [4] X Research source Mix in ½ teaspoon (2. 5 mL) melted beeswax for each cup (240 mL) oil for additional protection. [5] X Research source There are many synthetic products out there, including pretty good ones that use linseed oil as a base but provide additional protection. [6] X Research source Modern water-based finishes are cheap and easy to apply, but not good for long-term preservation. Boiled linseed oil (“BLO”) is a common choice, but provides poor water resistance and yellows over time. Its main advantage is price. [7] X Research source (Raw linseed oil is even less effective, although environmentally friendly. ) The flammability is greatly reduced once the oil dries. When the job is finished, air-dry the rags and newspaper in a single layer away from buildings and heat.
Never use solvent for cutting boards or other wood that will come into contact with food.
Applying more oil at once is acceptable if you’d like to save time. The more you rub in at once, the more variation there will be in color and shine, but this isn’t likely to ruin your wood’s appearance. If you are using a product sold as a wood protector, refer to the label for more precise instructions. Because many of these oils are flammable, keep a metal container nearby to store these materials after the oiling. Have access to water or a fire extinguisher so you are ready in the unlikely event that some of these materials spontaneously ignite.
If the oil has already dried on to the surface, wet a cloth with a little more oil to wipe it up again.
Wait until the previous coat is dry. This can take under an hour for some synthetic products, to a week or longer for raw linseed oil. Sand the surface lightly. Mix more oil-solvent mix, if necessary. Use less solvent for each coat, making a thicker and thicker mix. Rub in the next coat.
Water repellent will provide additional protection against water, which may be useful if the wood will be exposed to serious humidity. A layer of paint provides additional protection, depending on the paint type. To protect against scratches, use polyurethane or another wood finish.
Check all sides of a wooden house each year for signs of wear. Sides exposed to strong wind and rain may need repainting sooner than others.
