You can pick up a dent repair kit from any auto supply store for just a few dollars. In certain places, like the hood, trunk, and rear panels, it may be possible to pound out dents from the inside of the body using a hammer and dolly. [2] X Research source
Make sure you use enough putty to fill in each damaged spot completely. To deal with smaller imperfections like pinholes, try a glazing putty. Glaze putties are thinner than ordinary fillers, which allows them to penetrate into places that thicker products can’t. [4] X Research source
Body filler materials don’t technically “dry,” they cure via chemical reaction. For this reason, a heat lamp or hair dryer can come in handy to help speed things along. [6] X Research source Some body filler materials double as primers, which means you can paint right over them as soon as they’ve cured. Be sure to read the specifications on the product you’re using—it could end up saving you a lot of time.
While sanding your filler material, it’s especially important to feather the edges to minimize the chances of lines or ridges showing up in the finished paint. A block sander can make smoothing large areas easier and more comfortable.
Make sure the block you’re using is no more than about 1,200-grit. Any smaller and it may not be able to rough up the existing paint properly.
If you don’t own an orbital sander, you may be able to rent one from your local hardware store or home improvement center for a small daily rate. Even with an electric sander, it may take hours to remove all the paint you need. This is one of the most time-consuming steps in preparing a car for paint, so be patient and don’t rush. [10] X Research source
If you’re going to be painting your car a different color, you’ll need to sand all the way down to the bare metal to prevent the old color from showing through. [12] X Research source
It’s important to make sure that the entire area has been scuffed evenly. Automotive paint and primer have a hard time sticking to smooth, glossy surfaces.
If you proceed without cleaning your vehicle, you could end up with small particles trapped in the fresh paint.
If you’re painting one of the car’s back panels, for example, you’d want to make sure the rear wheel, trunk, and windows are all sealed off. It may also be a good idea to move your vehicle outside or park it on top of a dropcloth to prevent making a mess in your work area.
Make sure your primer is properly thinned and mixed before you begin spraying. A standard epoxy or acid-etch primer will be the best choice for most projects. If you’re going to be painting over plastic, you’ll need to use a plastic-specific type primer instead. [18] X Research source A thin base coat may be all you need if you’re just doing some touching up.
Sanding primer while it’s still wet will just cause it to rub off, undoing all your hard work. Exact drying times will vary depending on the product used and how heavily you apply each coat.
If you don’t find any glaring differences in texture, you can skip straight to applying your next coat of primer.
