Buy full size or 4/4, if you’re an adult. The violin is a small instrument, but there are specially designed smaller sizes available. These are generally only intended for younger children, so be sure the violin you’re buying is full size unless you’re very small. You can ask the shop for a recommendation if you aren’t sure. [1] X Research source You can also ask the shop to measure your arm length to see what size violin you need. When holding the violin in the playing position, straighten your left arm and the tops of your fingertips should be near the top the violin scroll. If your arm is way past the top, the violin is too small. Buy from a reputable seller. Music stores stake their reputations on selling solid instruments that are free of obvious flaws and damage. As a beginner, you won’t be able to coax a very pleasant sound from your instrument for some time, so flaws in privately sold violins might not be apparent to you until it is far too late to complain. Only buy from a store or individual you can trust.

Strings come in three basic varieties: gut, which is expensive and difficult to take care of, but which offers a complex range of sound; steel, which is loud and bright but can sound scratchy, and synthetic, which is smooth, clear, and not as unpredictable as gut. Each type’s name refers to the core material around which metal wire is wrapped to create the string. Most beginners should go with synthetic core strings, such as nylon core. [3] X Research source The bow should be new, or newly re-haired. You can check this by looking at the hair of the bow (the fine, white or off-white fibers) and ensuring that the color is uniform and bright along its entire length. The hair of the bow should be a uniform width from end to end. Bows wear down over time. You can get your bow re-haired for a small fee at most music shops.

Some violinists, especially beginners, also purchase a shoulder rest, which is a violin-width pad that sits on your shoulder underneath the violin and makes it easier to hold. Many people start with a shoulder rest and eventually remove it after a few years. If the violin seems to dig into your shoulder when you play, consider purchasing one. Fiddlers, if they sing while performing, often hold the violin in the crook of an arm while playing, with the butt resting against their shoulder. For them, chin rests and shoulder rests are generally pointless. A tuner is a small device that clips on to the scroll or the pegs of the violin. It is useful for beginners if you are teaching yourself, as it can be used to make sure you are playing the notes correctly. But once you know how to play the notes, the tuner isn’t of much use anymore except for tuning the instrument itself. Be sure to take it off before big performances though, as it looks unprofessional.

The hair shouldn’t be too limp, or too tight. The hair should not be parallel to the wooden part of the bow, but with the wooden part curving slightly toward the hair. Don’t use your pinky finger as a gauge because the oil from your skin will transfer to the hair, which needs to remain oil-free to get the best sound from the strings.

If you don’t think the rosin is producing any “dust”, take a key, sandpaper, a coin, or any other sharp object, and lightly scratch the rosin. You will see some light streaks if you scratched hard enough. Too much rosin will cause the bow to grip too well, producing a scratchy sound. If you over-rosin your bow, it’s fine; it’ll just take a few hours of playing to bring it back down to the correct level. If this is a newly haired bow, it may need more rosin than normal. Draw the flat side of the bow hair across a string to see if it makes a clear sound after three or four strokes of rosin. If it doesn’t, add a couple more.

Rely on a tone whistle to find the correct notes, or simply look sound files up on the Internet. Not all violins have fine tuners, but they can be installed by a shop. Some violins may have only one fine tuner, on the E string. Some violinists can make do with just that one fine tuner, while others may prefer to get the rest. [6] X Research source

It might feel a bit uncomfortable at first, but over time, it will form into a habit. Your hand should be relaxed and loose, and somewhat rounded as if holding a small ball. Don’t let your palm close or rest on the bow. This reduces the control you have over the movement of the bow, which becomes increasingly important as your skill increases.

Your jaw, just under the earlobe (not your chin), is supposed to be resting on the chin rest. This helps prevent the instrument from sliding off your shoulder. (This is also why violinists on TV always seem to be looking down and to the right. )

Beware of the “waiter hand” where your left wrist is touching the fingerboard, just like how some waiters hold plates of food. This, too, could turn into a habit if you don’t fix it. As a beginner, your hand should be as far up the neck as possible while still allowing your pointer finger to come down on the fingerboard. Eventually, you’ll learn to slide your hand up and down to reach higher notes quickly.

More pressure equals louder sound, but too much pressure makes it scratchy. Light pressure should produce a continuous tone from end to end of the bow;[7] X Research source if there are gaps, the bow needs more rosin. If you play too close to the bridge, it may also sound scratchy. Tilt the bow slightly toward the scroll and your tone will be more focused, producing a more professional sound.

Short and long strokes are both important techniques for playing the violin, so don’t feel as though you’re wasting time practicing with short strokes. Continue practicing until you can play one string at a time without touching the other strings. It’s important to develop control so you don’t accidentally play a note you didn’t want to play.

Add notes. Once you’re able to produce a clear note, try putting the tip of your middle finger down a little ways below the pointer finger on the fingerboard. Keep both fingers down and play another, higher note. Finally, set the ring finger ahead of the middle finger and repeat the process. The pinkie is also used, but takes considerably more practice to master. For now, just worry about the other three fingers. Add strings. Try playing four notes (open, pointer, middle, and ring) on all four strings. Pay attention to the amount of pressure you need to produce a clear note on each one.

When properly played, the D Major scale (and in fact, every major scale) should match the sound of the famous “Do, Re, Mi, Fa, So, La, Ti, Do” singing scale. If you don’t know what that is, look it up online or watch the musical film “The Sound of Music,” which features a memorable and well-known song called “Do Re Mi” that explains it. If you can’t seem to get the sound right, remember: place the first finger a finger’s width from the nut, the second finger a finger’s width from the first, and the third finger touching the second. If you prefer, ask your music shop or teacher to tape the finger positions for you with white tape, so you have a visual guide. Other scales, such as minor, harmonic, and even pentatonic (5-note) scales exist, but those can be studied, practiced, and internalized later.