Temperatures below 59 °F (15 °C) can make your fruit’s quality inferior. [1] X Trustworthy Source EDIS Electronic database of the University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences’s peer-reviewed articles Go to source
You should avoid shallow soil and compact, layered soil. This will make it difficult for your roots to stretch. If your soil is hard and compact, you can add compost to help it reach the correct conditions. Dig down 2 feet (0. 61 m) deep and work the composite into the soil.
During the spring, the soil will be easier to break and dig into, rain will help water the plants, and the sun will be out enough to give your tree the necessary light it needs.
If using a pot, make sure it too is at least 2 feet (0. 61 m) feet deep.
As the added dirt mound is created from already broken soil, it allows new roots to have an easier time penetrating the ground. If you’re planting multiple trees, plant them 10 feet (3. 0 m) to 12 feet (3. 7 m) apart, so they don’t cannibalize each other’s water source. [4] X Research source
For cuttings, take care that no roots are above the soil and that the graft line is. Cut off any roots above the graft line if necessary. Get low to the ground to make sure your cuttings are completely vertical once planted. Mark where you’ve placed seeds with little flags that can be easily removed once the seed has sprouted.
Guava trees are mainly rain-fed. Remove any weeds and grass from the tree’s area as a young guava tree cannot compete very well against them for water and nutrients. [6] X Research source
It’s preferred that you wait a year before fertilizing your tree.
In addition to this, you can place another heat source below the tree to give it practically complete freeze protection. [9] X Research source
Guava wilt disease symptoms include wilting and yellowing or bronzing of the leaves, noticeable sagging, and the premature shedding of fruits. There is no cure for this, but heavy doses of nitrogen after fruiting and protecting the roots from damage can stave it off. Stylar End Rot only affects the fruit of the tree, discoloring it to brown or black. Infected fruit cannot be saved, but a fungicidal spray can save the rest of your crop. Anthracnose causes young shoots to die rapidly while leaving the fruit and leaves attached. It also causes fruit and leaves to develop dark lesions. Like Stylar End Rot, this is a fungal infection and fruits not affected can be saved with a fungicidal spray. [11] X Research source
