If your pool cover has more than 1 in (2. 5 cm) of water on it, scoop up debris with a pool rake. A pool rake isn’t actually a rake. It’s a scooping net meant for collecting leaves and other debris.
The pump plugs into an electrical outlet like any other pumps your pool uses. Attach a garden hose to the other opening on the pump so it can siphon water back to an area of safe drainage, such as a nearby bucket.
Note that if you have a mesh cover, it has to be detached from its retaining springs through the installation tool that came with it. Then, use a 1⁄4 in (0. 64 cm) hex key to lower the holding anchors, preventing the cover from getting caught on them. While you have the cover spread out on the ground, inspect it for damage. Replace it if you notice any tears. At least you will save some time by not having to clean and store the old cover! If you move the cover onto your lawn, don’t keep it there for a long time. It can damage the grass.
You can use dish soap, pool cover cleaner, or even car wash soap for the detergent. Scrub the cover gently to avoid damaging it. Avoid using harsh chemicals or sharp tools. Spend extra time tackling any tough stains you notice. You may need to scrub them by hand with a soft cloth.
If you leave the cover to dry on its own, it can take 30 minutes to 1 hour. The drying time will vary depending on the amount of moisture and the weather conditions in your area. Make sure the cover is dry before you store it. If it’s still wet, mold or mildew could grow on it.
Many owners move their pool covers into an open spot like a shed or garage. If your cover isn’t in a sealed container, mice and other destructive creatures could settle in it. Don’t leave the cover outside for too long. It could harm your lawn or get damaged. Try to put it away as soon as it finishes drying.
New O-rings are available online, at hardware stores, or any other place that carries plumbing supplies. Note the position of any O-rings and plugs so you can keep an eye out for leaks that need to be repaired.
If you don’t have any extra equipment to attach to the filter, run the filter’s hose to the pump’s return inlet valve. If you have an above-ground pool, use flexible plumbing lines to connect the skimmer to the pump and other equipment. If you didn’t winterize your pool, you won’t need to deal with the equipment very much. Skip to reactivating the pump and conditioning the water.
If the pump doesn’t come on, check its wiring. Head to the nearby circuit breaker controlling the pump’s electrical supply and make sure it is on. Pool antifreeze isn’t harmful, so you don’t need to worry if some of it leaks into the pool. Running the pump for a few cycles later will also pump out the antifreeze.
The pump and filter unit will each have at least 1 drain plug. Heaters and any other external plumbing hardware you have also has plugs. If you have an in-ground pool with water jets, you may also have plugs on the jets. You may also have put an ice compensator in the water to prevent it from freezing. Store-bought compensators look like blue pillows filled with air. Remove the compensator and set it aside.
This is a good time to inspect the bolts and other metal components for rust. If they look damaged, replace them before reinstalling the accessories. The accessory bolts are prone to rusting, so consider treating them all with an oil-based lubricant like WD-40 or petroleum jelly. Coat them lightly before installing them. Use a terry cloth to wipe away any excess lubricant.
Always refill the pool before turning on the pump or treating the water. The fresh water throws off the chemical balance , so doing it now will save you from having to test the water a second time.
If your system has bleed valves, you will see them sticking out of the top of the pipe. Turn the caps counterclockwise to let air out of the pipe. These valves will spray air and water after you activate the pump.
If the pump doesn’t seem to be running very well, shut it off and open the filter basket. Spray the filter with fresh water from a garden hose. You may need to prime the filter this way a few times to get it working. If you have time, let the pump circulate water for 2 or 3 hours. Give it plenty of time to get back into working order.
If you’re unsure about the metal levels in the pool, get testing strips that test for elements like copper. The strips will turn colors when they detect metal. If the level is higher than recommended, add some of the sequestrant.
Since your pool has been dormant, consider taking a sample to a pool supply store. Most places offer free tests and can give you recommendations on what you need to do next.
When the alkalinity is off, the pool water may look cloudy. Low alkalinity causes scaling on the pool walls. High alkalinity leads to stains and corrosion.
A low pH level leads to corroded pipes and colored stains. A high pH level can leave stains on pool equipment and encourage bacteria and algae growth.
Chlorine shock also helps raise the calcium hardness level. You will have a chance to add shock later, so you may wish to wait to treat the water if the calcium level is close to 150 ppm. If the water is low in calcium, it stain and abrades the pool liner. If it is high in calcium, it looks cloudy and scaly.
Cleaning the pool now prepares it to receive shock treatment, creating the perfect water conditions for swimming. Any sediment you stir up will get filtered out through the pump. Pay extra attention to the pool accessories and recesses around them. Debris often settles there and can be hard to remove.
You can also fill a bucket with pool water and mix the shock into it. If you do it this way, make sure you reserve the bucket for the brand of shock you buy. Shock is very strong and can even explode if you mix different brands.
If the water still looks cloudy, you may need to let it circulate for a little longer. You could also purchase a water clarifier to clear it up faster.
